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Let me paint you a picture:

It's 4;30 in the morning, and you downing the first of maybe 10 cups of coffee today. It's pitch black outside the only thing you hear is geckos and crickets, the smell of surfvax reminds you why your up so early.

On the boat ride out nobody says a word. All of a sudden it starts pouring down, in 10 seconds it turns from 25 degrees too 15. With only a flashlight and lightnings in the distant to guide us you finally reach your goal. It's still dark when you jump in the water, it feels like a warm bath and the only thing missing is bubbles and scented candles.

You can hardly see the sets but you definitely hear them. Out on the lineup a dark wall is rising towards you and you start to paddle, just hoping your not to deep. You take off and when you running down the line you see light reflecting for the first time.. like i mirror. No wind, no sounds, just soft water in front of you and your heart beating like crazy. When you pull off, the only thing running though your head is one more,one more..one more.

The sun rises and when the last set's rolling in you're exhausted, but you set out for the biggest one anyway. Someone screams paddle, paddle hard! your at the edge of the thing when you feel a little helping hand on your foot, and you know you've got it.. POP UP! You see the section closest too you is closing so you race down the line and after that it's just sweet waveface, you can't help but smile when the locals is giving you the thumps up and screaming.

The euphoria on the boat back home is ridiculous, breakfast is waiting.. then some sunset surf... Now thats surfing for you!